Juliette part three: The Victorian Era dress

Victorian dress

Today concludes our three-part feature of Juliette. This woman is an amazement to me. She has an entire room in her house full of fun costumes she has made. It was clearly hard for her to pick just three for our three-part feature.

We decided to stick within a color theme of light pinks and blues. We also thought it would be fun to travel through time. It’s crazy how much fashion changed in less than 100 years.

We started with the Civil War era, moved on to the late 1890’s and are concluding with this lovely gown from the Victorian/Edwardian Era. Think the beginning of Downton Abbey. She entirely re-did this entire dress and made it her own.

Victorian dress

All of our three-part features conclude with a Q&A. Here is her’s:

Name: Juliette Tebeau Bezold

Location: Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky area

Occupation: Interior Designer at GBBN Architects

In her spare time, she’s a part of the Ohio Renaissance Festival, the Old West Festival, the Wandering Minstrel Theatre Troupe and the Horehounds Burlesque, an offshoot of the Wandering Minstrels. She and her husband have also traveled all over for vintage dance weeks and weekends.

How long have you been into costuming?

I can barely remember not being into costuming. When I was six, my mom took me to my first musical, which was Oklahoma. By seven I was in my first musical. I was a royal child in The King and I. And so at that point on from the age of seven, I was completely obsessed with period costumes. With hoop skirts and corsets in particular because of Anna in The King and I.

When did you start making your own costumes?

I made my first first costume properly sewn on a sewing machine when I was 13.

Victorian dress

That’s so neat that you’re a working professional and then do this on the side. Do your coworkers find it interesting at all?

Yes they do, actually. I was walking in the Reds Opening Day Parade with the group from the Old West Festival and so I changed into my costume at the office since I work downtown. Everyone thought that was pretty funny and I took a picture there at my cubicle.

So what got you into history and costuming?

It all goes back when I was seven and I was in The King and I. That was a turning point in my life. I became obsessed with costumes from that point on. I wanted a hoop skirt, I wanted a corset. I made my first communion in the same weekend as the play, so I saved all my first communion money and all my birthday money, and my mother took me to a second hand bridal salon and bought me a hoop skirt and a second hand size three bridal gown. She cut it down for me and I played with that thing until it was ribbons. I still have it for her (daughter) to play with one day.

Victorian dress

So at the time it was the pure wonderment of it all?

Honestly for me, it’s a little more than that. It’s about how the costume transforms you. How it makes you feel. Like I’m someone prettier or richer. It’s that character and becoming someone else. I mean why does any woman put on a face that’s not hers? I feel in my costumes more special than in anything else.

So it’s just fun getting to be someone else?

Yes. And it’s also just being a part of history. Like with The King and I, Anna Leonowens was a real person. I had my mother track down the two-inch book Anna and the King of Siam so I could read it because I was so fascinated that she was a real person. From that point on, I just read the pages of the Encyclopedia over and over again about Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scotts, Marie Antoinette … all these famous women who had beautiful dresses who I became obsessed with but also had really interesting stories and lives. I think that’s why I love the Renaissance Era so much because I was fascinated from that age.

It’s a way you connected with women and women throughout history.

Exactly. And before the Internet and before people with quirky obsessions had a way to connect with each other, theatre was the only outlet for that. So I got into theatre because it was the only way I could express my desire to make costumes and portray women throughout history.

Do you ever give thought to the role women had throughout these time periods and how that’s changed?

Oh absolutely! And it’s interesting because I feel that a lot of my sewing skills and talent is just intrinsic and a part of me. I feel that that has just come to me from an ancestor. My great grandfather was a tailor. He was a man, not a woman, but that was his profession. He immigrated from Poland in the early 1900’s and he died when I was six months old. I feel that my sewing ability just came. It’s just a part of me that I need to express. I do think about women as I make my costumes. All that I can do on a machine, they had to do by hand. Really the tailor’s skill was a man’s job. The famous dress designers of the Victorian Era were men. There were female houses, but it was still a man’s world.

Victorian dress

What does being a woman mean to you?

What does being a woman mean to me? Women create. Men can create too, but it’s part of what convinces me that God must be a woman because I think it’s just part of me to create. If you look at women throughout history, we were the ones creating the home, creating the hearth, creating the food and creating life. To me, it’s all interrelated and I can’t not make things. It is so much a part of who I am. I often think as I’m making things like this is … I guess God’s the word I have for it. But if that’s the divine to create, then it’s in God’s image and therefore all interrelated.

Anything else you want to add?

I will say that I love making the under garments just as much as I love making the dresses. I love corsetry, and working with steal and leather. It’s empowering. That actually is a point I would like to make is there’s this myth that corsets were somehow something that enslaved women. That they were painful or it was part of what kept women down. I want to not dispel that myth. That is not true. There’s no historical evidence that women ever had their ribs removed. There was a large amount of Victorian Era fetish writing or Victorian porn, if you want to take it at that. That’s where a lot of these things about removed ribs or 13-inch waits came from.

In reality, you ordered a corset from a catalog by it’s actual measurement. So if you ordered a 16-inch corset, it might measure 16 inches, but when you put it on and laced it, it might give you a 20-inch waist because you wanted to have a gap in the back. A lot of these things are myths. I can tell you right now that they are not uncomfortable. My corset takes off four-five inches off my natural waist. I sing and dance, sometimes simultaneously. I couldn’t do that if I couldn’t breathe. Women did all their daily chores in them. It was their foundation garment. Without a corset, you’d be unsupported. It would have been uncomfortable.

Yeah, because they didn’t make bras back then.

Exactly! There were no bras back then. The pretty housemaid corset, which was a model that was pretty popular in England, sold tens of thousands of units. Housemaids wanted it because they were the pretty housemaid in it. And if you were a housemaid, you were doing hard physical labor. I just want to dispel the myth that corsets are uncomfortable or an oppressive garment. That is not the case. Corsets were something that made you feel as beautiful back then as a beautiful matching bra and panty set would make you feel today.

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Today I’m linking up with:

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Juliette dress #2: The late 1890’s

Welcome to part 2 of The Dresses of Juliette. Today we look at an 1890’s dress. Juliette is a woman of many creative talents. Making costumes is what she does for fun. This week we take a look at three out of many … she has an entire room dedicated to the costumes she has made.

Today we go a little bigger and bolder than on Sunday. Today’s dress has bows, pastels and puffed sleeves. This gown resembles the styles of the United States and Europe in the late 1890’s.

The dress itself is bittersweet. She bought it the day after her cat passed away. One of her co-workers took her to a fabric shop to cheer her up. It was there that she felt this silk calling her name.

1890's dress

Any excuse to wear a tiara and hold a feather fan is a great day for me!

Juliette says her favorite part of creating costumes is that she gets to play pretend. When she puts these things on, she feels as though she can be someone else. There’s always a lot of fun to that.

I’m in awe.

1890's dress

The puffed sleeves are my favorite part. I just love how crazy and frilly they were. I would never want to wear puffed sleeves today. However I cannot imagine life 100’s of years ago.

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1890's dress 1890's dress

Thanks for reading along!

Also linking up with Jersey Girl Texan Heart

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Juliette and the Civil War era dress

Today, we take a step back in time. In this next three-part series, we will travel through time through the lens of dresses. Today, we start with the civil war era.

Meet Juliette Tebeau Bezold. She’s an Interior Designer, wife and mother. She also designs her own costumes for events such as the Ohio Renaissance Festival and the Old West Festival. Really, though, she makes her own costumes for fun. And she has an entire room in her house dedicated to them.

I initially met her at the Voodoo Carnival in February where her group The Horehounds Burlesque performed. I was introduced by a mutual friend and we got to talking about all the dresses and costumes she makes. I just had to come out and see them for myself.

 

civil war dress

This dress is a civil war era summer dress. She initially made it for Newport Vintage Dance Week, a week long gathering of people interested in vintage dance. During the day there’d be workshops and in the evening, there’d be dances and balls. There was always a seaside ball with a carousel, so she needed a light-weight, fluffy gown to ride the carousel.

It was quite an ordeal to put on with several layers. As I was helping Juliette with this process, I gave thought to dressing back then vs. dressing today. Most days, it takes me less than five minutes to put my physical clothing on. Then maybe I can add another 20 for fixing my hair, makeup and deciding what jewelry to wear. Back then, it was a process for sure.

civil war dress

First, it began with the under garments: bloomers and a corset. The corset would lace up in the back like shoe laces. Then there was the hoop skirt that would go under the actual dress, which makes it pouffy. Then the actual dress was put on over top and buttoned up. Last was the bonnet and gloves.

Even though this was a typical Spring and Summer dress of this time period, I cannot imagine how hot a dress like this must have been.

civil war dress

civil war dress

civil war dress

The detailing is also what strikes me. Juliette estimates that she spends about 200 hours on making a costume. Its simply amazing.

Costuming is one way in which Juliette connects with women of history.

“All that I can do on a machine, they had to do by hand,” she said. “Really a tailor was a man’s job. Women didn’t work on gowns a lot of times. The famous dress designers of the Victorian Era were men. There were female houses, but it was a man’s world.”

civil war dress

This week we will feature two more dresses as we move through time, ending in the Edwardian Era. I’m very excited and I hope you are too!

Also today I’m linking up with More Pieces of Me, Sincerely Jenna Marie, Not Dead Yet Style,

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